Showing posts with label design jewelry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design jewelry. Show all posts

6.26.2009

Art meets Green

Art is sneaky. It turns you green. Having dropped off the cliff of the hearing world into the ocean of non-silence that is my deaf world, I am the Siamese cat who howls this song in the stairwell to her internal orchestra while the rest of the world keeps on marching. I need now, more than ever, the music of my hands, as I recycle myself. I need art to convey the burden of purpose. The purpose? Halt the march. Art is the way I green my attitude towards change, and point others towards repurposing how they live and what they do.

A writer for a local newspaper interviewed me this week, a really nice gesture that comes at a poignant time. She asked about the word "reUse", and a curious discussion of art, eco art, recycling, upcycling and greener living ensued. A curator, Elizabeth Lamb, first framed it in words that rang true for me: "There's an automatic association between reUse and the roughhewn, worn or used up which is a barrier to reUse art being taken seriously in the Art World." I think it is even bigger than that. The zeitgeist of the Atomic Era seeped into our national mindset like so much plastic, leaving a contemporary construct that remains actively unchallenged. Commercials bathe us in a mental potion of manipulative language and imagery about 'new, better, improved' that has, literally and figuratively, poisonous consequences. We buy at our own risk. An endless addictive cycle of annui, thrill then disenchantment attends the proliferating and hungering for the most current (aka better) consumer goods. What is it about humanity that we are such suckers for novelty?

All this failed me during the interview. Words are not easy for me. I reached for my basket of feline fur and needlefelting, to show the simple process of felting the material for jewelry projects such as this Mandalacat Amulet which is made of 15mm glass beads, reclaimed sterling cable (or guitar string), upcycled leather, a vintage button and, my wool of choice, persian cat fur.


What I should have said was that most American children probably think felt grows in 12" square blocks on a colored felt tree at a craft megastore. Instead, I learned about felt yurts and shelters in Central Asia where my mother's people came from before immigrating to Germany. For millenia, people have been shearing goats, sheep and other animals, boiling and matting this versatile fibre for everything from walls and doors to coats, hats and shoes. I'm not innovating at all. I use what is at hand, as people have always done. Think of the unique Chinese gardens, where broken pieces of pottery are worked into mosaic amidst local stones. Examples are everywhere. Quilling in the work of Lakota artists, caribou tufting by the Dinendeh. An early mentor, calligrapher Inga Dubay, who restored the art of beautiful writing to Oregon's school system through the Getty-Dubay method, put it best: "Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without".

Back to the burden: I am stunned that greening life is considered a new idea. It is traditional. It is what people have done since time out of mind. Things which were made from the earth return to it and become grist for something else. Cities rise and fall and new cities are built atop the previous ones. In America, we forget this. This land was full of art and culture when Europeans came here and built over and against the active cultural traditions which were in progress. The neo-industrial world overshadows the agricultural proclaiming itself bigger and smarter. It's the same old story in new clothes. Since when is common sense an innovation?

Living greener is about returning. Trusting methods that were time-tested over generations. Being content to be temporary creatures of a time and a place, instead of having to be THE time and THE place in some grand sense. I feel the most important thing I can do, as an artist, is pass this tradition on to my loved ones and friends: take what is at hand, and let this become transformed by caring attention into a message of purpose and appreciation. To be greener, attend in a new way. To be an artist, listen inside and let your attention be drawn to a new mechansim of expression as your hands make music with the ordinary. Think, what else can this become? Or in life, what else can I make of what is at hand?

5.16.2009

Art meets Vows

When you're ready to make your vows, why not make your rings? There are many methods available: jewelry artists who are trained as design jewelers can help when you have a theme in your heart even if you can't draw or picture the rings. This is not rocket science, it's applied art and craftsmanship! The key is finding jewelers who listen well (not coerce you into pre-existing patterns), who design, and who have experience using a variety of metalsmithing techniques. You want help to customize this visual story about your relationship. What you're looking for is to explore metal and stones beyond the typical diamond wedding set mentality. This is where a design jeweler can help you have the same comfort you would insist on if you were going to wear a second skin. It matters! Don't just go to the mall!

The bride and groom's family wanted to honor their determined relationship of 10 years by gathering family heirlooms to recycle the metal and stones, as well as the history behind them. The groom's ring features inlaid mokume gane, a Japanese technique of married metals, set in 18 karat white gold. Mokume gane is an exceptional delight to the eye, offering effects similar to woodgrain, or the play of ripples on water. It is also quite a statement about one metal next to another: contrast can be dramatic or subtle, depending on the metals used. (Not a bad metaphor for people getting married). We found special stock at Reactive Metals which suited the groom's purposes. He was guided through the construction of his ring from carving the wax for a lost wax vacuum casting, to soldering the inlay of mokume gane in place before final polishing of his sleek and very individual ring.

The bride had a deep connection to her great grandmother's 6 karat lavendar star sapphire. A high cut cabachon, it was originally set in a classic princess Di style surrounded with diamond pave. The ring went through a second incarnation when it was redesigned in 18 k yellow gold, highly architectural shape with channel set diamonds. For her own turn, the bride yearned for something organic, fluid, and graceful, with an Art Nouveau feel but strength that would still balance the considerable weight of the high stone to reduce rolling on her finger. She was leery of prongs due to activity and opted for a gypsy setting to afford protection and add to the fluidity of the design. Her sketches suggested floral stems and leaves which were loosely interpreted in white gold.


1. rough cast 18 karat white gold mounting






2. cleaned up casting with side mounted diamonds

















3. and the final center stone set and polished!

The rings figured prominantly in the overall handmade nature of this wedding. But best of all, the process of making them was as important as the symbols. If you are in the Pacific Northwest, and have not yet met Tim Green of Timothy W. Green Jewelers and Jo Gentry Haemer of Gentry Goldsmithing, check out their classes for design jewelery instruction extraordinaire. Care about the process, and enjoy the product even more. If we make vows, why not also invoke these promises as we marry intentions in the metal? Art, like relationships, is not just a thing, it IS a way. What could be a more wonderful way to celebrate a marriage?